Seven Days in a Week
September 27th 2008, by GQ
Saturday morning, 4.30am. While France sleeps, the competition are working.
I used to make the mistake of thinking that we had five days in a week in which we could harvest, from monday to friday. I then worked out that nature doesn’t take the weekend off, so Daniel, Nelly and I now focus on simply getting the timing right. Having not picked since wednesday 17th, the old semillon vines in Les Trois Hectares are ready to go. The grapes taste great, the analysis looks good, and the weather forecast is a worry for the middle of next week – and we’ve got a lot of white grapes out there. Over 13 hectares, in fact, or 33 acres. We could harvest the whole lot in a day but we’d lose the morning freshness.
Cutting Away Unwanted Grapes
September 26th 2008, by GQ
The lovely, dry weather gives us the double benefit of waiting for the grapes to ripen and the chance for us to ditch any bunches which are affected by botrytis or rot before they are picked. As well as Nelly, Daniel and Samira, we’ve got Clementine (right) and Ronan staying with us to help out. This week we’ve been snipping away at the white grapes – the sauvignon blanc and the semillon.
It’s chilly and dry in the mornings, which helps to stop any rot spreading, but jackets are off later in the day.
Start of the Harvest: Night Attack
September 17th 2008, by GQ

We began the harvest this morning at 4 o’clock. We’ve hired the same man and his impressive machine that we’ve used since 2006, bringing in the grapes really cold and fresh before dawn. The flavours of the sauvignon blanc, from early ripening young vines, are superb. And with the early start, a Full Moon and the chill of the night, the grapes are fresh, crisp and juicy – with little risk of oxidation as they come into our winery within minutes of being picked.
Constant Gardening
September 3rd 2008, by GQ
It’s the end of the holidays and the children are back at school. Or, to be more precise, schools, as they are at four different schools this year. Three are in the local town, Créon, while Sophie goes to Carignan a few miles away. Throughout the summer, we try to keep the grounds looking sharp, and the work continues well into the autumn, with no shortage of visitors around harvest time. Our small team are polyvalent, or multi-purpose, so Nellie is equally at home on the lawnmower as she is labelling bottles, packing cases, or racking red wine from one barrel to the next.