Seven Days in a Week
September 27th 2008, by GQ
Saturday morning, 4.30am. While France sleeps, the competition are working.
I used to make the mistake of thinking that we had five days in a week in which we could harvest, from monday to friday. I then worked out that nature doesn’t take the weekend off, so Daniel, Nelly and I now focus on simply getting the timing right. Having not picked since wednesday 17th, the old semillon vines in Les Trois Hectares are ready to go. The grapes taste great, the analysis looks good, and the weather forecast is a worry for the middle of next week – and we’ve got a lot of white grapes out there. Over 13 hectares, in fact, or 33 acres. We could harvest the whole lot in a day but we’d lose the morning freshness.
In Honour of Didier Dagueneau
September 21st 2008, by GQ
We were saddened to read about the untimely death of Didier Dagueneau, who was killed flying a microlite at the age of 52 last wednesday. ‘Dagueneau was known worldwide as an outspoken and brilliant winemaker’, reported decanter.com.
Many years ago, Angela and I went to see Dagueneau’s artisanal set-up near Pouilly in the Loire, where he had ‘decided to make the best Sauvignon Blanc in the world. Not at all pretentious for someone who’s been making wine for two years.’
Start of the Harvest: Night Attack
September 17th 2008, by GQ
We began the harvest this morning at 4 o’clock. We’ve hired the same man and his impressive machine that we’ve used since 2006, bringing in the grapes really cold and fresh before dawn. The flavours of the sauvignon blanc, from early ripening young vines, are superb. And with the early start, a Full Moon and the chill of the night, the grapes are fresh, crisp and juicy – with little risk of oxidation as they come into our winery within minutes of being picked.
All Systems Go
September 16th 2008, by GQ
We’ll start harvesting tomorrow. A parcel of sauvignon blanc, new vines which we planted in 2004 on gravel and clay soils, are tasting delicious and aromatic. Sugar levels are high at just over 13% potential alcohol and the acidity has lowered over the last few week to the optimum level. It’s the taste that counts though – and one of the many things I like about sauvignon blanc is that the flavours you find in the grapes are just like those that you’ll find in the wine. Assuming you don’t cock it up, which is easy to do.