Ground Control
August 29th 2008, by GQ
We’re taking advantage of some hot, dry weather before the harvest to rectify a problem underfoot in a parcel of young merlot vines, planted on gravel and clay soils. When we planted them a few years ago, I didn’t realise that a slight incline from right to left would result in deep troughs being carved out by rain water running down the slope, cutting away at the same channel each time it rained. These channels have made it dangerous to drive down the rows with a tractor. So we asked a friend with a ‘minipelle’ to help us sort it out. With Daniel beavering away in the vineyard, I wasn’t going to hire a digger and make a complete hash of it. And it’s very hot.
Keeping the Vines in Trim
August 27th 2008, by GQ
The end of August is often thought of as a quieter time in the vines, but with intermittent rain in the last fortnight, we have to be vigilant against the threat of mildew. As I wrote here, the sprayer we bought in 2006 has proved to be a great investment for the three seasons so far, especially in the tricky years of 2007 and 2008.
Daniel, the guvnor, is back from his annuals and is out there trimming the vines. As well as keeping the vines in good shape, it’s a preventative step against mildew when timed correctly. The row on the right has been given a short back and sides, while the row on the left is about to be snipped.
Changing of the Colour: Véraison
August 18th 2008, by GQ
Even though friday was un jour férié, or Bank Holiday, there was work to be done in the vineyard, and on saturday too. Working on a saturday in mid-August doesn’t go down well with the troops, let alone on a Bank Holiday, but the merlot grapes are changing colour from green to red, a process called véraison. And when it’s about a third of the way through, we spray to protect against botrytis or rot, as do most of the top estates in Bordeaux - even if spraying dates don’t feature in the brochure. This was the second preventative measure against rot, the first having taken place during flowering in early June, and the timing can be tricky to judge. As I walked down the rows I thought “that’s 10% veraison”, “that’s 40%”, and so on until at the end of the parcel, I stuck a finger in the air and said, ‘we’ll do this parcel on friday’. And I’d forgotten about the Bank Holiday.
The Art of Leaf-Stripping
July 21st 2008, by GQ
Nearly all the top Châteaux are at it, as are most quality-driven estates in Bordeaux. The practice of effeuillage is not something one reads about on a back-label (not that there are many of those on top-class claret) but it’s an important job at this time of year. Over the last week - with the help of a dozen experienced seasonal workers - we’ve been busy removing the leaves from around the fruit zone, so that the bunches get a good airing for the rest of the growing season. The general idea is that this will help the grapes to ripen over the next few months, with the added bonus that the risk of bunch rot is reduced.
The leaves are plucked away from the grapes on the cooler, morning-sun side of the row of vines at this stage, because sudden exposure might cause sun-burn on the grapes facing the mid-day and afternoon heat. Many top vineyards complete the job on the other side in early September when it’s slightly cooler, but that phase seems to be less critical. We’ll decide on how to play it then.